Hello from Jerusalem. It doesn’t seem possible that I am beginning my second week at the Hartman Institute. The learning has been incredible—amazing teachers, fascinating topics, and interesting colleagues. Every day I get up and pinch myself that I am actually here in this holy and fascinating city. Despite its challenges I love being in Jerusalem, and always feel that in some way I am coming home when the Nesher (shared taxi from the airport) comes up the mountain and around the corner into the city. I am very much aware of what a privilege it is to be here, to live with so much history and also to struggle with the contemporary issues that face this city and country.
Yesterday was Rosh Chodesh Av, the new Jewish month of Av. Each first day of the new month Women of the Wall gather to pray and read Torah at the Kotel or Western Wall. Jews have been praying at the Wall, which is a remnant of the retaining wall of the Ancient Temple, for centuries. The Women of the Wall group has for many years been working to try to attain equality in prayer at the Wall. The site is divided into two sections, one larger half for men and a much smaller section for women. For many years the site has been controlled by the Orthodox who believe that women cannot lead a prayer service, read from Torah, or sing in prayer at the site. Women of the Wall sued for equality in the Supreme Court and unfortunately lost. They are allowed to gather, but their tallitot must be worn so that they look like scarves and not prayer shawls (see picture above); they must pray in quiet voices, and they can only read from the Torah in the nearby archaeological park, not at the Wall.
Yesterday morning there was a large group of women who came together at 7 AM to pray. Many American rabbis, including myself, who were in town came to show solidarity with their Israeli sisters. We prayed the morning service, surrounded by police (see picture above).The officers tried to keep us in a small group and to keep us quiet, but our numbers kept growing. The men in the section next to us shouted curses, and yelled for us to stop praying. Several liberal men prayed with us, and stood by the divider to shield us from things being thrown. A few very religious women came and tried to harass the group. There were several photographers and a reporter from NPR.
When it came time for the Torah service we had to move. The Supreme Court of Israel ruled that women may not read Torah on the women’s side of the wall. When I have been to these services before the Torah is carried in a large duffle bag to the alternate location. Yesterday Anat Hoffman, head of the Israel Religious Action Center (IRAC) and a supporter of Women of the Wall, carried the Torah in her arms to the exit of the Wall plaza. We sang songs and followed behind.
As we exited the security gate a soldier tried to grab the Torah from Anat’s arms. The police surrounded her, and then pushed her up the stairs into a waiting police jeep. It was a terrible thing to see Anat, with the Torah, being driven by the police from this place which is supposed to be the most holy place in Judaism. All we wanted to do was pray and read Torah. As a friend of mine said we didn’t threaten anyone, built a bomb, throw stones or pull a gun. We simply sang and carried the story of our people’s history. (To see a video of the arrest go to: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cJUbW65itno).
The group reconvened at the police station and we finished our service without Anat and without the Torah. She could hear us singing while inside. She has been banned from the Kotel (the Wall) for 30 days. Although the morning did not end as I expected I was very glad to be there to lend my voice and my support to these Israeli women who gather to pray every month. Anat Hoffman is, in my estimation, a prophet of Israel. It is because of people like her that changes are made in the world, and she has my utmost respect and admiration.
After the excitement of the morning my roommates and I got some breakfast in the Old City and then did a little shopping. In the picture above you can see the inside of an Arab shop in the shuk which sells jewelry, rugs, ceramics, and various kinds of linens and scarves. It is an amazing shop; every corner holds different and interesting treasures, and is typical of many shops in the shuk.
I am off to an evening lecture about the Israel Defense Force and ethics. The subject of much of the learning at Hartman this summer is Engaging Israel. I’ll write more about that in a future blog.